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St
Andrew, Wickmere
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The
wind gets up, flurrying the high grasses. Clouds
scutter in the wide Norfolk sky. It is early
August 2005, a day in that mixed summer of heat
and rain and unpredictability. Tom and I have
come here to Wickmere in late afternoon at the
end of two days exploring churches in the area
between Cromer and Aylsham; it is number 32. One
of the great joys of visiting churches in this
area is that nearly all of them are open and
welcoming to visitors; but St Andrew isn't, which
is a shame. And there is no keyholder listed. We
peer through the little barred window in the door
(left), but we can't see much inside at all. |
Instead, we wander in the graveyard, remote
at a crossroads with few other buildings in sight. Below
its feminine late medieval crown, the narrow round tower
begins in a rather austere manner, a little like a
chimney of a Cornish tin mine, before tapering towards
pretty 14th century bell windows. St Andrew is a rare
20th century example of what was commonplace at the time
the tower was topped; a major restoration paid for from a
bequest, with the provider of that bequest memorialised
in effigy inside.
He was Baron Walpole, the fifth Earl of
Orford, who died in 1935. The Orfords traced their title
back to Sir Robert Walpole, Prime Minister, and the
ruination of the church beside their Hall at Wolterton
led them to adopt this one. The fifth Earl now lies,
patently asleep, inside; Walter Caroe was paid to
thoroughly rescue this building from collapse, which was
accomplished before the Second World War broke out. Tie
beams stopped the clerestory and roof pushing the arcades
outwards, and the bulging of the tower was drawn back by
tie beams about halfway up.
Inside, I understand that not only the
screen has Saints in the dado, but that two of the panels
from the Wolterton screen, depicting donors, are now
fixed to the 1930s pulpit, though I've not seen this
myself. Also inside is an Elizabethan memorial to members
of the Dix family.
In 2004, Peter Stephens was fortunate to
arrive here as the church was being decorated for harvest
festival, and his lovely set of pictures of the interior
are below. It seems to be a lovely example of a rural
East Anglian medieval church on a small scale. It
deserves to be better known; above all else, it deserves
to be accessible to strangers and pilgrims.
Simon Knott, October 2005
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