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The Norfolk Churches Site: an occasional sideways glance at the churches of Norfolk

All Saints, Wacton

Wacton: storm clouds gather above the fortress

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the sheerness of the walls

    All Saints, Wacton
nobody, alive or dead   This big church sits in its pretty village less than a mile from Long Stratton's anonymous suburbia, but still has a thoroughly rural setting. The tower narrows considerably, and is clearly in two stages, probably three. The lowest stage is almost certainly Saxon.

But the church built against it is something quite singular. The narrow graveyard accentuates the sheerness of the walls, a long, tall, narrow nave and chancel in one that is pretty much as it was when rebuilt, on the eve of the Black Death. By the later decades of the fourteenth century we stopped building churches like this, and the colder rationalism of Perpendicular would take over from the mystery of Decorated. All Saints captures the moment before this happens beautifully. What would have happened if the Black Death hadn't arrived? European architecture fragments at this moment, and probably Christianity would not have become such a serious business. Something of the joy goes out of European culture in the middle years of the fourteenth century.

What is this building like inside? No idea. There is not a hint of a keyholder, and no one I know has been able to penetrate Fortress Wacton. I found a notice on the board outside saying that the church office is open from 9.30 to 12.30, Monday to Thursday; but either this was an old notice, or the church office is somewhere else, because both my visits have been in the morning, early in the week, and on both occasions there was not a soul in sight. Rattling and banging on the door raised nobody, alive or dead.

Mortlock, who did get inside in the early 1980s, saw a screen that was contemporary with the rebuilding of the church, an old font, and an interesting mix of 18th and 19th century furnishings. I assume that they are all still there.

Simon Knott, February 2006

 

 

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The Norfolk Churches Site: an occasional sideways glance at the churches of Norfolk