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All
Saints, Wacton
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This
big church sits in its pretty village less than a
mile from Long Stratton's anonymous suburbia, but
still has a thoroughly rural setting. The tower
narrows considerably, and is clearly in two
stages, probably three. The lowest stage is
almost certainly Saxon. But the
church built against it is something quite
singular. The narrow graveyard accentuates the
sheerness of the walls, a long, tall, narrow nave
and chancel in one that is pretty much as it was
when rebuilt, on the eve of the Black Death. By
the later decades of the fourteenth century we
stopped building churches like this, and the
colder rationalism of Perpendicular would take
over from the mystery of Decorated. All Saints
captures the moment before this happens
beautifully. What would have happened if the
Black Death hadn't arrived? European architecture
fragments at this moment, and probably
Christianity would not have become such a serious
business. Something of the joy goes out of
European culture in the middle years of the
fourteenth century.
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What is this building like inside? No idea.
There is not a hint of a keyholder, and no one I know has
been able to penetrate Fortress Wacton. I found a notice
on the board outside saying that the church office is
open from 9.30 to 12.30, Monday to Thursday; but either
this was an old notice, or the church office is somewhere
else, because both my visits have been in the morning,
early in the week, and on both occasions there was not a
soul in sight. Rattling and banging on the door raised
nobody, alive or dead.
Mortlock, who did get inside in the early
1980s, saw a screen that was contemporary with the
rebuilding of the church, an old font, and an interesting
mix of 18th and 19th century furnishings. I assume that
they are all still there.
Simon Knott, February 2006
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