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St
Botolph, Stow Bedon Stow Bedon is a useful reminder
that a village and a parish are not the same thing. All
England is divided into the parishes of the established
Church: until the 19th century, civil parishes and church
parishes were virtually identical. Most parishes have a
single village in them which takes their name, but a
significant minority do not, especially in East Anglia,
and especially in central Norfolk, where many parishes
contain nothing more than straggles of houses along
lanes. Less commonly, a parish has more than one village
centre: Stow Bedon has two clusters, about a mile apart,
and this church is between them. It feels even lonelier
than it looks on a map, partly because of the way the
Breckland rolls away in all directions from the wide
graveyard.
There
would, of course, be no point in a remote church like
Stow Bedon unless it was kept open, and the parish
obviously realise this, transforming what would otherwise
have been a dying lock-up into a wayside shrine for
pilgrims and strangers. This is especially good because
St Botolph is not a remarkable church - or, at least, not
for historical or architectural reasons. That it has
survived at all is more cause for comment. Cautley,
coming this way in the 1940s, reported that this
terribly-treated church is rapidly falling into ruins.
A German plane returning from the Midlands dropped its
remaining bombs near this poor little church, completely
wrecking it. Perhaps it is surprising that it was
restored to use, but we are right on the edge of the
battle training area here, and perhaps the loss of four
medieval churches to the British Army galvanised the
Diocese into rescuing this one.
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building had a chequered life even before this.
The west tower fell in the 18th century, and in
the 1850s this was one of the last-known churches
to be restored by the largely pre-ecclesiological
Norwich architect John Brown, much in the style
of the 'Carpenter's Gothic' churches he had been
building two decades earlier. The bell turret is
rather perky, and below it a curious porch
protects the 14th Century west doorway, which for
many centuries must have served as the tower
arch. The interior feels surprisingly
large and barn-like, but even so the massive font
comes as a surprise. In the plain nave only the
royal arms provide a spot of colour, but this
wide space is a perfect foil for the intimacy of
the pretty little chancel, which is entirely 19th
century except for the haunting survival of the
medieval mensa stone on the wooden altar, a
perfect detail.
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