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St James,
Southrepps
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This
massive church rides the gentle hills to the
south of Cromer. Its great tower is visible for
miles, one of the tallest in the county. Until
the late 18th century, the huge nave had aisles
as well. It must have been one of the biggest
churches in England. You could
never have any doubt about the dedication of this
church, because all around the base course of the
tower are scallop shells, the pilgrim symbol of
St James. The tower dates from the middle years
of the fifteenth century, slightly earlier than
its neighbour at Northrepps, and is replete with
flushwork and carving. The west door is a grand
entrance, the bell windows tall and elegant. It
rises almost fifty metres, a beacon over
Poppyland. For Frank Allen, writing the
definitive account of English church towers in
the 1930s, Southrepps served as an exemplar for
anyone wanting to understand the church towers of
East Anglia. Mortlock thought it one of the best
in Norfolk.
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We arrived
here at the end of a long and successful day working our
way up the coast. Everywhere we went, the churches were
open and welcoming, and Southrepps was no exception.
Indeed, as the mother church of the Trunch Team Ministry
parishes, it could be said to been one of the instigators
of the practice. All the churches around here welcome
pilgrims and strangers, and you go away from all of them
with a warm feeling, which is exactly how it should be.
Now, it
was starting to spit with rain, the first proper rain of
July, a month that will remain long in the memory for its
warmth and dryness. We scurried outside taking our
photographs, and then went into the church.
The first
impression of St James is of quite how well looked after
it is, a church which is obviously and vibrantly in
regular use. The new screen to the tower arch, and the
renewed roof above, create a warmth, the organic feeling
of wood on stone. The arcades in the nave walls race
eastwards, and you yearn to see daylight through them,
but the aisles were demolished in 1791.
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chancel was substantially restored in the 19th
century, the tracery of the great east window
renewed and everything made neat and seemly. I
think that the south wall, with its sedilia and
piscina and intricately carved figures, is pretty
well complete, the work of the early 14th century
as Decorated architecture reaches its peak.
Incidentally, the way the east and west windows
echo each other, the one Decorated and the other
Perpendicular, is tremendous. This building must
often feel full of light. The late
19th and early 20th century glass is of a high
quality. A fine medieval angel in a south chancel
window is un-East Anglian in style, and may have
come from elsewhere. There are otherwise few
medieval survivals, but there is a sense of every
age, a touchstone down the generations. I liked
looking up at the west window, and at the roof,
and the curiously primitive early 18th century
memorial to the Barton family, with an
inquisitive skull and the inscription squeezed
in. Best of all, I liked being here, because St
James is a harmonious whole, an aesthetic
delight.
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