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St Peter,
Smallburgh
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Like
many East Anglian towers, St Peter's was in a
state of disrepair by the late 17th century;
flint is a fairly high maintenance material, and
lavishing money upon the buildings was frowned
upon by the puritans, an attitude reflected in
much of the Anglican church itself. And so, it
collapsed, taking the western half of the nave
with it, to be patched up with the mean-looking
tower that Bloomfield saw in the early 19th
century. It was not until 1902 that Walter
Tapper's west end was built; Pevsner called it
ugly, but I think this is unfair. It is certainly
austere, and perhaps sits a little uncomfortably
in the rambling graveyard; in truth, there is an
urban quality about it.
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But if not
wholly in keeping it is seemly and imparts a certain
amount of gravitas not typical of the period. I rather
liked it, especially the crossed keys below the bells. No
doubt about the patron Saint here.
More
curious are the windows to south and north of the nave.
No aisles here, no clerestory; the walls were heightened,
presumably in one campaign, but the windows are a mixture
of Perpendicular and Decorated. There is a symmetry to
them, the earlier style in the middle flanked by two of
the later on both sides of the church. I wondered if the
Decorated windows were actually a Victorian conceit,
although they appear to be genuine, unlike the tracery of
the great east window, which is Victorian.
Entering
the church, there is a spartan austerity about the
interior that matches the west front. This contrasts
greatly with the vividly painted roof, which is
contemporary with the rebuilt west end, but was painted
in the 1920s under the direction of the Rector's wife.
The interior is certainly unlike other Norfolk village
churches. I'd guess it is something of an acquired taste.
Actually,
I found the roof quite interesting. In the style of a
traditional Norfolk hammerbeam roof (though I assume that
the hammerbeams are false) it is painted with texts
rather than images - the Te Deum Laudamus to south and
north, and Psalm 150 forming a canopy of honour at the
east end. I thought this showed that the Rector's wife
must have had a good understanding of medieval liturgical
dynamics, because general thinking nowadays is that the
angel roofs of medieval churches were exactly this; not
mere decoration, but a hymn of praise reflecting the
devotional activities in the space below. Interestingly,
the hammerbeam ends stick out into the air, and ache to
have angels on the end of them, but there are none. I
wonder if they were ever intended?
Despite
all this modern rebuilding and redecoration, there are
some interesting medieval survivals here. The rood screen
dado is painted with eight Saints; they are in very poor
condition, but enough survives to make identification of
some of them possible. On the north side are St Anthony
with his little pig, a King (possibly Henry VI), St
Benedict and what must have been a fine St George. On the
south side, in rather better condition, are St Giles with
a fine leaping hart, St Lawrence with his grid iron and
two figures that are almost entirely lost, except that
they appear to be the ghosts of bishops.
| Intriguingly,
there are three more panels reset on the east
wall. The panels themselves are of different
sizes, but they may have come from either the
rood loft or from the doors in the screen. One of
the figures is certainly St Peter. The other two
are Bishops, and it has been conjectured that
these two, along with the two faded figures on
the screen, might make up the four Latin Doctors:
Augustine, Jerome, Ambrose and Gregory, a popular
foursome on late medieval Norfolk screens.
However, it must be said that one of the figures
appears to have the word 'Martin' lettered at the
bottom. I was pleased to find the church
open, and the nice lady hoovering inside told me
that it always is on a Saturday. She was
extremely knowledgeable about the building, which
is reassuring, since people who understand a
building are more likely to exercise a proper
duty of care towards it. And St Peter is not an
easy building to love, but it is full of
interest. As I said, something of an acquired
taste.
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Simon Knott, April 2005
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