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St
George, Saham Toney
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One
of the delights of travelling in East Anglia is
that you only have to go a couple of miles to
come across another medieval church, and you
never know quite what you are going to find. Some
are small and homely, some extravagant and
breath-taking, some austere, some beautiful, some
quirky. If I say that St George is nothing
special, then I hope that nobody will be
offended. This is a large, attractive building,
its exterior redolent of the excitements of the
late medieval years, its interior a testimony to
the full confidence of the late 19th century. It
is set imposingly at a bend in the road, and it
is open to passing travellers every day. It has
some fascinating medieval survivals, and some
outstanding features from the centuries in
between. But if the medieval churches of
England are the greatest act of witness that the
Church has in this country, then St George is
typical of that at its best, and typical of much
of Norfolk - and so, in that sense, is nothing
special. Long may it remain that way.
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Just
another church, then, you might think; but there is no
such thing as an uninteresting medieval church, and all
of them are worth a visit. Not all of them are open, and
so this church is certainly worth getting down out of the
saddle or off of the seat for. Even before you enter, the
porch will tell you that this was a place where a
considerable amount of money was spent in the century
before last, and also that it has been very well cared
for since. The interior you step into is dark and rich,
typical of thousands of Anglican churches all over the
world which were refurbished in the second half of the
19th century. We might as easily be in Armagh, Accra or
Buenos Aires as in the Norfolk fields. But look again -
for among the furnishings in the style of the late 15th
century that were so beloved of the restorers of that
time are some genuine articles, medieval bench ends
applied to the new range. And, even better, there is the
beautiful wine-glass pulpit, and a screen which, while
without any surviving figures on its dado, is a delight
in its tracery.
Perhaps
the best of all the surviving furnishings is not medieval
at all. This is the magnificent Laudian font cover of the
1630s, domed and collonaded, with a pelican feeding its
young on top. It must be one of the best of its kind in
East Anglia.
The
enthusiasm of the Victorian restorers did not prevent
them from conserving the best of the past, then. But it
also did not stop them rather over-egging the pudding as
far as the windows go. They are of variable quality, to
say the least, and so it comes as some surprise to
discover that much of it is some of the earliest work in
Norfolk of the great WIlliam Wailes, in 1845.
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1890s Ascension and the Nativity by Lavers and
Westlake in the south aisle are not good,
although as is so often the case with these
things, there are some neat little details. But
Wailes's Last Supper, is worse, I think. Christ
looks on in apparent disgust as a small animal
rolls in his dinner. It is intended as a roast
lamb, of course (although this is not a dish
which would have been served at the Last Supper,
which was a Passover meal) and I am sure that the
expression is intended as one of piety. Not risking
worse, the great east window contents itself with
patterns and abstract shapes, saying nothing.
Above the south doorway, the injunction of Christ
to the woman taken in adultery recalls us all to
be better people.
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