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St
Michael, Plumstead
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We
headed west from the park of Barningham Hall to
find another pretty church in the lost lanes of
north Norfolk, its narrow graveyard fronting the
village street, and its tower surmounted by
elegant flushwork and pinnacles, a typical fancy
of the end of the Middle Ages. It is a mark of
just how big Norfolk is that this parish is not
to be confused with Great Plumstead and Little
Plumstead, both much larger and way off on the
other side of Norwich. The village is often known
as Plumstead St Michael. The church
was once bigger, and if the south side looks a
little odd it is because a low aisle has been
demolished, and the clerestory filled in.
Mortlock was rather harsh on the 19th century
mock-Decorated tracery nave windows which
replaced the arcade. Certainly, they look a
little odd, but they have the kind of quirkiness
which is the charm of the churches in this part
of East Anglia. And, like hundreds of others
around here, St Michael is open to pilgrims and
strangers every day. It is perhaps the best part
of England in which to explore churches.
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The
interior is that of a typical late 19th century small
church, made slightly urban in feel by the crispness of
the pitch pine and Minton tiling. The nave has one of
those elegant brass candelabras which are in several
churches around here. You can see the remains of the
arcade in the south wall, and this is the most
significant survival of the medieval life of Plumstead.
However,
the church is rescued from anonymity by a good collection
of medieval and continental glass brought here from
Catton Hall, near Norwich, in 1950. The best of it is in
the east window, a charming St Agnes set in the centre
and then other panels depicting St Bartholomew, a monk
and a Bishop. An intriguing feature of two of the panels
is that two little heads fill a corner of the bottom of
each. Almost certainly, they are portraits of the donors.
Beside the heads, the barleycorn motifs which are typical
of the Norwich School of the 15th Century are scattered
across the floor beneath the Saints' feet. In a south
window of the chancel are two large panels of 16th
Century continental glass, including a floating angel,
who really looks like nothing else I have ever seen in an
English church.
There are
two unusual features in the nave. One is a set of Royal
Arms for George VI, which I think may well be unique in
East Anglia. I have seen several sets for Elizabeth II,
but I do not recall seeing one for her father before.
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the wall from it is a sweet little memorial
written in charmingly shambolic lettering for
Theophilia Fleming, the daughter of Peter
Wilson Esquire of this Town. She died in
1743 at the age of 42, although the memorial
gives the date as 6th Janry 1742/3, as
this was in the days when the New Year began on
March 25th. The English calendar changed from
this practice to the current one just ten years
later. Her inscription records that in
Piety and Virtue she was a bright Example. No one
was evermore Deservedly, and Sincerely Lamented. What
more could any of us wish to have said of us?
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