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St
Martin, Overstrand
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Like
several churches in this part of the world, St
Martin was in a very bad state by the 19th
century, with only part of its nave still in use
for worhip, and the decision was made to rebuild
it. It seems to have been a north Norfolk fashion
to rebuild on a new site, and so when Christ
Church was erected in the churchyard beside St
Martin in 1867, St Martin was left as a
picturesque ruin. However, in 1883, Clement Scott
eulogised this area in an article written for the
Daily Telegraph, and the legend of Poppyland, a
dreamlike English idyll, was born. The north
Norfolk coast became a popular holiday
destination, thanks to Scott's writing and the
opening up of the area by the railways. Perhaps a
characterless Victorian church did not fit in
with Scott's vision of what Poppyland was, and
what people might find there. The medieval parish
church at neighbouring Sidestrand had been
rebuilt on a new site in an entirely medieval
round-towered style, and so it was that Christ
Church was demolished, and the ruin of St Martin
restored to something approaching its former
glory. The architects were Cecil Upcher and AJ
Lacey, and the church was opened on the eve of
the First World War.
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The
reconstruction coincided with the pre-War triumphalism of
the Church of England, which was at that time at its
highest point in the national consciousness, but the
project demanded a rigorously vernacular style, and so
too many excesses were avoided. The guardian angel in his
niche on the south side is not a taste of things to come,
because you step into a relatively plain and simple
interior which is full of light from the clear glass
windows. The only colour comes from a vibrant east window
depicting Christ in Majesty
with St Cuthbert and St Martin. The aisle and chancel are
by Upcher & Lacey, the north doorway surviving to
create an unusual opening between aisle and nave.
Mortlock says the current south porch was originally on
the north side. Arthur Mee says that the old font was
found in a garden.
Although
Overstrand is in many ways still a remote backwater, the
memorials and headstones here record links to some of the
19th century's most significant philanthropic families,
including members of the Buxton and Gurney families as
well as Lady Battersea, who was one of the Rothschilds.
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Thomas Fowell Buxton was the millionaire owner of
Truman's brewery. He married Elizabeth Fry's
sister, and as MP for Weymouth and the Isle of
Portland he spoke strongly in parliament for the
abolition of all slavery, even after the ending
of the slave trade. It is said that his advocacy
of the extension of liberty in Africa through the
influence of legitimate trade under the
protection of Christianity inspired the Scottish
doctor, David Livingstone, to go to Africa as a
missionary. Tragedy haunted Buxton and
his wife Hannah: four of their children died
during an outbreak of whooping cough in the early
spring of 1820. Buxton himself never came to
terms with his failure to eradicate slavery from
Africa; he died in 1845, and was buried here. His
memorial is inside the church, but he is also to
be found on a recent British five pound note,
where he is the spectacled figure standing to the
left of his sister-in-law, Elizabeth Fry.
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