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St Alban,
Lakenham, Norwich
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St
Alban, in the well-to-do suburb of Lakenham, is
the best of the Anglican churches built between
the wars in Norwich. The architect was Cecil
Upcher, perhaps best known in the city for saving
and restoring Pulls Ferry and the Ferry House,
where he lived and worked. At first glance, it is
a surprise that this elegant building, largely in
the Early English style, should date from the
1930s, but the large, blind chancel is more of a
clue, and the crisp suburban setting is
reminiscent of that of the many south coast
churches built in that decade. The grand
south porch is in the Norman style, and a fine
sculpture of St Alban sits in an alcove looking
east from the chancel wall. Below him are set
three stones with plaques recording that they
were brought here from Canterbury Cathedral, St
Alban's Cathedral and Norwich Cathedral for a
ceremony to mark the start of work on August 4th,
1932. They were dedicated by Bertram Pollock, the
Bishop of Norwich, but it would be another five
years before he could come back to consecrate the
building in 1937, towards the end of his
staggering 32 years as incumbent.
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With the
storm clouds of war already gathering, the opening of St
Alban must have seemed a triumph of hope. The Norwich
photographer George Plunkett came here on the afternoon
of the 25th June 1938, the year after the opening, and
took the photographs below. You can see at once that the
Norman motif from the south porch is repeated in the
arcades, creating a near-Classical effect.
I came to
St Alban on a sunny day towards the end of July 2009,
some 71 years later. Unlike other city churches, the
urban context here is almost entirely unchanged, the
polite Edwardian houses around still the setting that
Upcher and Plunkett knew. I stepped through the west
porch into an interior which was full of light - there is
no coloured glass at all here. Again, and despite the
exterior, the sense is of a Classical building, and the
arcades a reminder of the influence of that genre on
Modernism - blot out the clerestory, and we might easily
be in part of Basil Spence's University of Sussex. The
wooden chairs photographed by Plunkett have all gone, to
be replaced rather uneasily by modern cushioned ones,
although generally the clearing of clutter does the
building a service. Above the clerestory rides a
beautiful panelled roof, slightly canted and looking for
all the world as if it has come here from an 18th Century
country house.
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Alban contains an interesting medieval survival.
This is the 14th Century font which came from Knettishall, just over
the Suffolk border. The parish church of
Knettishall, which has always been in the Norwich
Diocese, suffered abandonment in the early
decades of the 20th century, and in 1933 its
furnishings were dispersed, mostly to Riddlesworth church on
the Norfolk side of the border, but the font came
here. It was a happy coincidence that St Alban
happened to be the only church in the diocese
under construction at the time. The font cover
appears Jacobean - it may well be by Upcher, who
was an accomplished font cover designer, but his
are usually in the Gothic style. Could it also
have come from Knettishall? In George
Plunkett's photograph, the east wall of the
chancel appears rather stark. The Reverend
Hawthorn, Vicar here in the 1950s, obviously
thought so too, and decided to suggest a
competition in the pages of the Eastern Daily
Press to provide a reredos. The winner was Christ
in Glory by Geoffrey Camp, which depicts the
Risen Christ above Norwich scenes. It is perhaps
not the church's best feature. Rather better, to
the south, the glazed windows of a side chapel
are engraved with scenes from the Nativity. When
I came here, the parish mid-week Eucharist was in
progress, another reminder that the High Church
end of the Church of England in Norwich is still
hale and hearty. When it was over, the Priest and
the congregation could not have been more
friendly and welcoming - this must be a lovely
church to go to.
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