| |
|
St
Lawrence, Hunworth
 |
|
It
was one of those warm, wide days in early spring,
when the world seems to be coming back to life
all of a sudden. The first insects of the year
careered about dozily, as if woken unexpectedly,
and flurries of finches tumbled from one tree top
to the next. A magpie strutted cockily across the
narrow lane which curves around the graveyard of
St Lawrence, and then took flight as we
approached. I had been here before, a
couple of years previously in high summer, but
then we had arrived to find the church covered in
scaffolding, and the gates barred off. Now, the
tower bore crisp witness to that occasion, its
fresh cement rather stark and gleaming in the low
sunlight.
|
At the
entrance to the graveyard, a fat brown rat basked in a
rut, and watched us warily as we walked towards him.
Reluctantly, he pulled himself up and wriggled up under a
yew tree, leaving the graves for us. And they are a good
crop here, some fine, lichened examples from the 18th and
early 19th centuries.
St
Lawrence is a big, handsome church with a bold south
transept. There's a pretty little triple lancet window at
the east end with emphasises the bulk of the chancel. It
has an echo at the west end of the nave in the low tower
arch, and there is a feeling of being inside a large barn
of a building. Everything lay under a plain light, a cool
simplicity that matched the silence and the birdsong.
This is essentially still the church as restored by the
Victorians, its tiled floors and polished wooden benches
beneath the ancient walls forming a pleasing, quiet
harmony. The only signs of colour were the fresh green
riddel curtains behind the altar, and a little statue of
the church's patron Saint set in a medieval image niche
beside a northside window.
A rather
exotic sanctuary lamp hangs in front of the altar.
Mortlock says that it is Turkish, and that it is said
to have belonged to Florence Nightingale, although
it isn't clear who is doing the saying. I suppose that
there is every chance that it was brought back from some
sacked church during the Crimean War, probably that of a
Greek community in Turkey or southern Russia, although it
is unlikely that it has been in this church all that
time. The 1850s would have been too early for sanctuary
lamps to be acceptable in most Anglican churches.
Turning
west, the medieval font stands beside the tower arch, and
the space beneath the tower has been cleared of clutter,
a perfect little setting for vases of dried flowers.
In
historical and artistic terms, the parish of Hunworth has
perhaps one of the less significant medieval churches in
Norfolk. But what it does have is a quiet, ancient space,
prayerful and numinous, open and welcoming; a place to
stop and step out of time into eternity, if only for a
moment.
|
|
|