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St
Nicholas, Dilham
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St
Nicholas is visible off in the fields from the
Wroxham road, but from this angle appears very
odd; you need a second glance to reassure
yourself that it really is a church. There is a
truncated round tower which has all the
appearance of a vast flower vase, and as you get
closer you can see the clean lines and unknapped
flint that suggests a considerable restoration. In fact,
nothing that you see is ancient, and virtually
all of it is 20th century. The church was built
in the 1930s, and the stump of tower comes from
only a hundred years earlier. I'm not convinced
that it has ever been any higher - I think the
'ruins' against the west wall were a folly. The
medieval building was demolished in the 18th
century and replaced with a new building. This
appears to have been done on the cheap, and 19th
century additions and elaborations, like the
round tower, could not prolong its life. So, it
was demolished and completely rebuilt, the stump
retained as a baptistery.
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When you
know this, you can see at once the clean 1930s lines, the
Gothic revival stripped of all Victorian neuroses. Inside
and out, there is a modernistic simplicity to this
articulate rendering of Norfolk vernacular; even the
angel roof is understated. An American correspondent of
mine, on seeing these pictures, said that it was like a
college dining hall, and I think that is exactly right.
St
Nicholas successfully combines this simplicity with an
air of Anglo-catholic devotion. The stations of the cross
are most unusual, large format photographs of what appear
to be artist's dummies set in the positions of the way of
the cross. Survivals from the old church include a
medieval font and the organ, and a large piece of lead
set in a wooden frame. It has a long Latin inscription on
it, and with the limited resources I could drag up from
school days I took it to be from the roof, since it seems
to describe the demolition of the old west end and the
building of the round tower in 1835.
As at
Worstead, there are photographs of everyone on the war
memorial, which is a lovely thing to do. And this is a
lovely church, a simple yet splendid modern building set
alone in the barley fields, well used, much loved, and
open to pilgrims and strangers every day.
Simon Knott, April 2005
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