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St
Michael, Aslacton
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It
has been observed that the area south of Norwich
has the largest concentration of medieval
churches in northern Europe. And yet, some are
not so easy to track down. Aslacton is lost in a
maze of narrow lanes; you find it where four of
them meet, and St Michael is at the centre. Aslacton is
an attractive village, and St Michael is an
attractive, welcoming church, as befits one of
the Pilgrim Group of parishes. The most striking
thing about it is the unequivocably Saxon tower,
the double-headed triangular bell openings
telling us that everything apart from the
battlements was here before the Normans arrived
and got us all organised.
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The body
of the church is a history of what happened subsequently.
The nave, probably Norman, was supplemented by an Early
English chancel which exhibits signs of the Decorated
period. Most likely, given that this is Norfolk, the
chancel was built in the Decorated period with idioms
surviving from the earlier period; but curiously, Pevsner
detected what are fairly convincing Saxon survivals in
the masonry at the south-east corner.
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then the 15th century, which had put the
battlements on the tower, brought the gorgeous
south aisle, clerestory and porch, completely
changing the shape of the church. Although there
is only an aisle on one side, the nave is short
enough for the interior to feel square, the big
windows of the aisle filling it with creamy
light. As so often with a church like this,
where you enter into the aisle of a small
building, the interior appears to unfold before
you. St Michael is not a treasure house, but it
is a delightful country church with local
character and a sense of being at the heart of
its community, a church of ordinary, local
people.
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There are
a couple of other curiosities. The arcade that divides
the aisle from the nave does not line up with the chancel
arch, but ends about 60cm short. In between is an alcove;
I think it may have contained the rood loft stair, but it
is hard to see exactly what happened; was the arcade
begun from the west, while someone was working quite
independently on the rood apparatus at the other end of
the nave? Or, could there have been an earlier attempt to
build an arcade that the Black Death interrupted?
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are bits of 19th century glass; an Agnus Dei in
the west window, a St George in the chancel, and
a busy, interesting Crucifixion by the Kings in
the east window. But this is not a church you'd
come to wanting to see something in particular;
rather, to experience the sense of an English
country church doing what it has done for
centuries. Innocenzo Caputo obviously
loved Aslacton. He was a poor illiterate
peasant, who set out to establish himself and his
family in a foreign land, and succeeded. He
died in July 2003, and is buried in the
churchyard by the porch.
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Simon Knott, February 2006
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