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This sprawling church to the
north of Watton sits in a fairly small
churchyard at a wide curve in the road,
and again we find that ogee-arched
doorway to the west that is also nearby
at Carbrooke and Caston. The south porch
is a rather austere affair, set partly
within the aisle. The aisle itself, and
the clerestory, are not imposing. This is
not big tower, but in proportion not a
tall one, and so the overall effect is of
a building which squats comfortably. The
aisle and clerestory are solidly
Perpendicular, the tower with its fine
west window from an earlier, gentler
Decorated period. Round the back, the
north doorway is even older, perhaps
revealing the true age of the building.
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St
Nicholas is a fine church, and a good example of
how the Victorians really got things right. It
also reveals something of the liturgical
developments since. The 19th century restoration
of Anglican parish churches was generally an
attempt to move them away from the evangelical
preaching boxes they had become, and return them
to something like their medieval integrity, with
all the trappings that this implies, an attempt
at what the Historian Eammon Duffy has called a
'resacramentalisation' of the interior. Here at
Ashill this was done by the book, with fine,
solid furnishings in a 15th century style, a
screen in the same style incorporating part of an
old one, the medieval font reset proudly at the
west end in a sea of tiles, coloured glass all
around.
This
happened at thousands of English churches, and
the work stands and falls by how well it looks
today. Here at Ashill it looks very fine indeed,
and this is largely because of some excellent
medieval survivals which the Victorians set on
proud display. The best medieval work here is the
sequence of glass panels in the north side
windows. They are the remains of a set of the
Four Evangelists and the Four Latin Doctors. We
have St John and St Mark from the first set, and
St Augustine and St Gregory from the second. St
John has been given the head of a woman.
The
old glass is offset by some excellent 19th
century glass. Scenes of Christ with Mary
Magdalene are in the west window, and a good
crucifixion fills the east. Unfortunately, this
is rather hard to see. Currently, the chancel is
curtained off to use as a meeting and resource
room, and the nave altar has become the main
altar. It is worth going into the chancel though,
because the east window is flanked by 13th
century columns typical of the Early English
period, again a suggestion of the true age of
this building.
| The traceried 14th century
font has a big surprise: a bearded head
looks out from under one of the panels.
Another curiosity is the royal arms up on
the north wall. They are dated 1683 and
are cast, I think, in iron. They are
brightly coloured, but what does the
Latin inscription say beneath it? I could
not decipher it. At
the west end of the aisle is the most
moving survival of all. This is a
Flanders cross, which originally stood
above the grave of Machine Gun Officer
Lieutenant KC Ford, who died of
wounds received in Plogstrat Wood in
December 1915. The cross would have been
placed above his temporary grave while
the battle continued around him - indeed,
there is a large hole in the cross caused
by shrapnel or a bullet. After the war,
the bodies were exhumed and collected
together, and were reburied under marble
crosses in war cemeteries. As far as
possible, the original wooden crosses
were sent back to the dead soldiers'
parishes of origin, and one survives here
today.
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